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Argentina Part II:
Ushuaia to San Rafael, Mendoza:
(8 January to 25 January 2010)
We leave Karla and Gary for our trip back north. They are going on an Antarctic cruise for 10 days. We return to Club Nautico in Rio Grande for a night. The next day we catch the last ferry out of Bahia Azul (Figure 1) to cross the Straights of Magellan (Figure 2). On the ferry trip, we see dolphins (Figure 3 & 4).
Figure 1. Ferry north from Bahia Azul across the Straights of Magellan.
Figure 2. Ferry crossing the Straights of Magellan with Tierra del Fuego in Background.
Figure 3. Dolphins surfing the ferry wake.
Figure 4. Dolphins in the wake of the ferry.
We spend several days in Punta Arenas, Chile because our dog Ewok is sick, and needs to see a veterinarian. While there we visit the penguin colony at Seno (Sound) Otway (Figure 5 and 6). There are also other birds in the area (Figure 7 & 8). The vegetation is typical of the Patagonian Steppe (Figure 9).
Figure 5. Magellanic penguins at Seno Otway.
Figure 6. Magellanic Penguins, adult and two chicks.
Figure 7. Austral negrito (a flycatcher) at the penguin colony.
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Figure 8. Long-tailed meadowlark at the penguin colony.
Figure 9. Patagonian wildflowers.
Once back in Argentina, we drive north on Ruta 3 along the Atlantic coast (Figure 10). We stay one night in the Municipal Campground in Puerto San Julian (Figure 11). This is one of the bays (Figure 12) visited by Magellan in the Spanish Galleon Victoria (Figure 13) , and later mapped by Fitzroy while on HMS Beagle. Along Ruta 3 we see a variety of wildlife (Figures 14 to 16). We also observe working gauchos on the estancias (Figure 17).
Figure 10. The Atlantic Coast north of Caleta Olivia.
Figure 11. Camp at Puerto San Julian.
Figure 12. The bay at Puerto San Julian.
Figure 13. Model of Magellan's ship Victoria in Puerto San Julian.
Figure 14. Grey fox south Rio Gallegos on Ruta 3.
Figure 15. Lesser rhea south Rio Gallegos on Ruta 3.
Figure 16. Puma scat in Parque Nacional Monte Leon.
Figure 17. Gaucho on Ruta 3.
As we head west across Patagonia on RN 26, we see the oilfields (Figure 18). We also have trouble getting gasoline (nafta) in several areas. In fact, we had to sit in line at Gobenador Costa for several hours while we waited for the gasoline truck to deliver (Figure 19). Luckily, we were 12th in a line of over 60 cars. We did see some neat elegant crested tinamous in this apart of Patagonia (Figure 20).
Figure 18. Patagonia oilfields inland from Comodor Rivadavia.
Figure 19. Waiting in line for gasoline to be delivered.
Figure 20. Elegant Crested Tinamous near Fangano, Patagonia.
We returned to Bariloche for a five day stay before heading on north. We drove around Lagos Nahuel Huapi and Mendez (Figures 21 & 22) for a day of sight seeing.
Figure 21. Bariloche from across Lago Nahuel Huapi.
Figure 22. Sharon and Lago Mendez with Lago Hahuel Huapi in background.
On our way north on Ruta 40, I stop to fish on the Rio Limay (Figure 23 & 24). We continue north to Junin de los Andes where we camp for the night. The scenery is breath taking (Figures 25 & 26). I do fish and catch several trout on the Rio Chimehuin, but they are small, nothing over 16 inches.
Figure 23. The Rio Limay where I fish for a while but catch nothing.
Figure 24. The Rio Limay is famous for its trout.
Figure 25. A volcanic rock formation called “Dedos de Dios” along Ruta 40.
Figure 26 Volcan Lanin seen from Ruta 40.
On our way out of Junin de los Andes, we stop at a condor observation site. The condors nest on the ledges of the cliffs (Figure 27). White wash from their defecation can be seen below the ledges. I see a condor on the cliff with binoculars, but am unable to photograph it at this distance.
Figure 27. Condor observation site, on the cliff you can see white wash where the birds defecate.
Along Ruta 40 in northern Patagonia, there are numerous cattle estancias rather than the sheep or sheep/cattle estancias of the south (Figures 28 & 29). We also see somne interesting wildlife (Figures 30 & 31). This part of Patagonia resembles parts of the Mohave Desert in the western USA (Figures 32 & 33).
Figure 28. Estancia on Ruta 40 in northern Patagonia.
Figure 29. Gaucho riding line on an estancia along Ruta 40 in northern Patagonia.
Figure 30. The red-backed hawk is common along Ruta 40.
Figure 31. One of the few snakes we saw in northern Patagonia.
Figure 32. Creosote bush in northern Patagonia.
Figure 33. The northern Patagonian Desert reminds me of the Mohave Desert.
Ruta 40 finally leaves Patagonia behind as we cross into Mendoza Province at the Rio Colorado and its tributaries (Figures 34 & 35). The landscape changes dramatically, from the low rolling desert plains of Patagonia to more volcanic desert rock formations (Figures 36 to 38). Along Ruta 40 we experience desert thundershowers that flood the ripio (dirt) road (Figures 39 to 41).
Figure 34. Rio Barrancas is one of the tributaries of the Rio Colorado which defines the northern limit of Patagonia.
Figure 35. Ruta 40 as it enters Mendoza Province.
Figure 36. Rio Barrancas with volcanic lava flows in the background.
Figure 37. The Rio Grande has cut a channel in the lava flow.
Figure 38. Another view of the Rio Grande.
Figure 39. Sign along Ruta 40 letting us know the problems ahead.
Figure 40. Ruta 40 after flash flood, we missed it by only a few hours.
Figure 41. Another view of Ruta 40 after the flash flood.
As we approach Mendoza, we drive through the Canyon Rio Atuel. Locals call it the mini Grand Canyon (Figures 42 to 44).
Figure 42. Canon Rio Atuel, Mendoza.
Figure 43. Another view of the Canyon Rio Atuel.
Figure 44. Still another view.
Sharon and I try our first wine tasting in the city of San Rafael south of Mendoza. We are not much impressed except for the organic winery of “Numerado de Abel Orrea”. Felix (in the photo) is the vintner and his Malbec is quite tasty, if a bit young (Figure 45).
Figure 45. The organic viña of “Numerado de Abel Orrea” Malbec.
I was surprised at the size and diversity of Argentina. There is no way I can do it in two parts. Thus, you will have to suffer through a Part III and possibly a Part IV before we leave for home.
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