Argentina Part III

Argentina Part III:

Wine Tasting:

(Various in January and February 2010)

Our first visit to viñas (bodegas) in Argentina was with the organic vineyard in San Rafael noted in my last log. However, in January and February we had the occasion to visit several wineries in the Merndoza, San Juan, and Salta Provinces. In general, the wines are quite good, and would measure up to any in California. In fact, they would do quite well against and wines in the world.

Our first major tour was in the Province of San Juan where Sharon and I hired a taxi to take us to several local bodegas. First we visited a “Champaign” bodega just west of the city of San Juan (Figures 1 & 2). This sparkling wine bodega is considered one of the best in San Juan. Maybe, but my thoughts are that it would have a hard time competing with even the most modest sparkling wine in California. Do not get me wrong, it is not bad. It is just not all that good. They also make some reds (Figure 3). However, we were not allowed to taste any. I bought a bottle of Merlot anyway. None of us liked the Merlot they produced. In fact, we threw it out after a single taste.

Figure 1. Bodega Cavas de Zonada, a sparkling wine bodega.

Figure 2. The bodega is located in an old tunnel that was created in 1928.

Figure 3. This bodega also makes some reds.

The next winery was Bodega Graffigna (Figure 4). The reds they produce are quite good (Figure 5). They claim to age their premium wines for 12 months in either French or American (Figures 6 & 7). We do buy several bottles of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon (Figure 8).

Figure 4. Bodega Graffigna in San Juan, Argentina.

Figure 5. Here I tried several of the red wines produced by Bodega Graffigna.

Figure 6. French oak barrel used to age wines at Bodega Graffigna.

Figure 7. American oak barrel used to age wines at Bodega Graffigna.

Figure 8. Sharon buying several bottles of red at Bodega Graffigna.

Our final bodega was a very small winery that produces only a few thousand liters of each variety a year (Figure 9) for export. However, they produce some vino patero for local consumption (Figure 10). The vino patero is not a particularly good red wine. It comes in 5 liter bottles. They allow us to taste four different red wines and two white, which I decline; Sharon does not (Figure 11). This was our first taste of a different variety, Bonarda (Figure 12). According to the young women, Bonarda is unique to Argentina. It is a very smooth, fruity wine. Later we try other Bonardas from a number of bodegas.

Figure 9. Bodega La Guarda.

Figure 10. Vino Patero produced by Bodega La Guarda.

Figure 11. Sharon tries all the wines at Bodega La Guarda.

Figure 12. I examine a bottle of Bonarda at Bodega La Guarda.

We drive north to the small town of Cafayate which is relatively well known for its red wines in the souther part of Valles Calchaquíes. Gary, Karla, Sharon, and I visit a number of wineries in the area. Our first was Bodega Etchart (Figure 13 & 14). They produce several very good wines including a sweet, desert, late harvest Torrontes (Figure 15). Torrontes, a very dry white wine, is another wine that Argentine wineries claim is unique to Argentina. Of course, since I do not like white wine, it was not my favorite. I especially enjoyed the tour because it was the first one I have been on where they were actually producing wine as we watched (Figures 16 & 17); The winery is over 170 years old (Figure 18). I try and buy several of their wines (Figure 19), including the late harvest Torrontes which is quite good.

Figure 13. Bodega Etchart outside the small town of Cafayate.

Figure 14. The Ruta del Vino in Salta Province, Sharon at Bodega Etchart.

Figure 15. Bodega Etchart produces several different wines.

Figure 16. Bringing the grapes to the bodega.

Figure 17. Starting the wine production by placing the grapes into the crusher.

Figure 18. Etchart Bodega was founded in 1850.

Figure 19. We try several of the reds and the late harvest Torrontes.

We also visit several “organic” wineries in the Valles Calchaquíes (Figures 20 to 22).

Figure 20. One of the "organic" winneries, Bodega Nanni.

Figure 21. Another organic winery, Bodega Nubes.

Figure 22. The vinyard at Bodega Nubes.

On a trip through the scenic Quebrada de Cafayate, we unexpectedly find a small bodega, Las Casa de la Bodega (Figure 23 & 24). This is a boutique hotel and small exclusive winery about 16 km northeast of Cafayate. Unfortunately, we are a bit too late to taste their wines.

Figure 23. Las Casa de la Bodega.

Figure 24. Pool at the boutique hotel.

Probably the most famous of the Cafayate wineries is Bodega El Esteco (Figure 25) producing several well known labels, including “Elementos”, “Don David”, and “Ciclos”. The tasting is expensive. We have to buy a “flight” of three to four wines. Each taste is a glass of wine for each label. So we each take a different flight and share. We try all of them (Figures 26 to 28).

Figure 25. The main building at Bodega El Esteca.

Figure 26. Sharon, Gary, and Karla in the tasting room at Bodega El Esteco.

Figure 27. John, Gary, Karla, and Sharon taste different wines at Bodega El Esteca.

Figure 28. Our hostess, Florencia, serves the wine at Bodega El Esteca.

On our way north on Ruta 40 in Salta Province, we go off the road 16 km to another boutique hotel and winery, Bodega Colome (Figure 29 & 30). We have a snack and try some of their wines which are very good and expensive (Figure 31). The cost for a night at the hotel for two is US $340. We decide to camp in the beautiful desert nearby (Figure 32 & 33). At camp we try some of our wines (Figure 34 & 35).

Figure 29. Boutique Hotel and Bodega Colome.

Figure 30. The Hotel Colome.

Figure 31. Gary, Karla, and Sharon try some snacks and wine at the restaurant at Bodega Colome.

Figure 32. Our camp near Bodega Colome.

Figure 33. The desert near our camp.

Figure 34. The Merlot from Bodega Nubes.

Figure 35. The late harvest (Cosecha Tardia) Torrontes for dessert in the desert.

On our way back to the Lake Region around Lago Nahuel Huapi, we stop for a last tasting at the bodega of familia Schroeder near Neuquen , with one label of Saurus (Figure 36 & 37). The winery was built on top of a Mesosoic paleontological area (Figure 38), hence the lable name. We try three of the reds. They are all quite good. We like the Pinot Noir for its bouquet of anis and taste of chocolate. We buy 6 bottles (Figure 39).

Figure 36. Bodega Schroeder with the Saurus label.

Figure 37. Saurus Restaurant and Bodega.

Figure 38. Display of the fossils at the bodega.

Figure 39. Sharon buying our stash of Saurus reds.

Interestingly, we find that everyone gets into the wine act in Argentina, this in San Juan (Figure 40).

Figure 40. This photo needs no title.

The wines of Argentina run the gamut of bad to good. We have only tried a few of the many bodegas, but give us time.

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Argentina Part II

Argentina Part II:

Ushuaia to San Rafael, Mendoza:

(8 January to 25 January 2010)

We leave Karla and Gary for our trip back north. They are going on an Antarctic cruise for 10 days. We return to Club Nautico in Rio Grande for a night. The next day we catch the last ferry out of Bahia Azul (Figure 1) to cross the Straights of Magellan (Figure 2). On the ferry trip, we see dolphins (Figure 3 & 4).

Figure 1. Ferry north from Bahia Azul across the Straights of Magellan.

Figure 2. Ferry crossing the Straights of Magellan with Tierra del Fuego in Background.

Figure 3. Dolphins surfing the ferry wake.

Figure 4. Dolphins in the wake of the ferry.

We spend several days in Punta Arenas, Chile because our dog Ewok is sick, and needs to see a veterinarian. While there we visit the penguin colony at Seno (Sound) Otway (Figure 5 and 6). There are also other birds in the area (Figure 7 & 8). The vegetation is typical of the Patagonian Steppe (Figure 9).

Figure 5. Magellanic penguins at Seno Otway.

Figure 6. Magellanic Penguins, adult and two chicks.

Figure 7. Austral negrito (a flycatcher) at the penguin colony.

Figure 8. Long-tailed meadowlark at the penguin colony.

Figure 9. Patagonian wildflowers.

Once back in Argentina, we drive north on Ruta 3 along the Atlantic coast (Figure 10). We stay one night in the Municipal Campground in Puerto San Julian (Figure 11). This is one of the bays (Figure 12) visited by Magellan in the Spanish Galleon Victoria (Figure 13) , and later mapped by Fitzroy while on HMS Beagle. Along Ruta 3 we see a variety of wildlife (Figures 14 to 16). We also observe working gauchos on the estancias (Figure 17).

Figure 10. The Atlantic Coast north of Caleta Olivia.

Figure 11. Camp at Puerto San Julian.

Figure 12. The bay at Puerto San Julian.

Figure 13. Model of Magellan's ship Victoria in Puerto San Julian.

Figure 14. Grey fox south Rio Gallegos on Ruta 3.

Figure 15. Lesser rhea south Rio Gallegos on Ruta 3.

Figure 16. Puma scat in Parque Nacional Monte Leon.

Figure 17. Gaucho on Ruta 3.

As we head west across Patagonia on RN 26, we see the oilfields (Figure 18). We also have trouble getting gasoline (nafta) in several areas. In fact, we had to sit in line at Gobenador Costa for several hours while we waited for the gasoline truck to deliver (Figure 19). Luckily, we were 12th in a line of over 60 cars. We did see some neat elegant crested tinamous in this apart of Patagonia (Figure 20).

Figure 18. Patagonia oilfields inland from Comodor Rivadavia.

Figure 19. Waiting in line for gasoline to be delivered.

Figure 20. Elegant Crested Tinamous near Fangano, Patagonia.

We returned to Bariloche for a five day stay before heading on north. We drove around Lagos Nahuel Huapi and Mendez (Figures 21 & 22) for a day of sight seeing.
Figure 21. Bariloche from across Lago Nahuel Huapi.

Figure 22. Sharon and Lago Mendez with Lago Hahuel Huapi in background.

On our way north on Ruta 40, I stop to fish on the Rio Limay (Figure 23 & 24). We continue north to Junin de los Andes where we camp for the night. The scenery is breath taking (Figures 25 & 26). I do fish and catch several trout on the Rio Chimehuin, but they are small, nothing over 16 inches.

Figure 23. The Rio Limay where I fish for a while but catch nothing.

Figure 24. The Rio Limay is famous for its trout.

Figure 25. A volcanic rock formation called “Dedos de Dios” along Ruta 40.

Figure 26 Volcan Lanin seen from Ruta 40.

On our way out of Junin de los Andes, we stop at a condor observation site. The condors nest on the ledges of the cliffs (Figure 27). White wash from their defecation can be seen below the ledges. I see a condor on the cliff with binoculars, but am unable to photograph it at this distance.

Figure 27. Condor observation site, on the cliff you can see white wash where the birds defecate.

Along Ruta 40 in northern Patagonia, there are numerous cattle estancias rather than the sheep or sheep/cattle estancias of the south (Figures 28 & 29). We also see somne interesting wildlife (Figures 30 & 31). This part of Patagonia resembles parts of the Mohave Desert in the western USA (Figures 32 & 33).

Figure 28. Estancia on Ruta 40 in northern Patagonia.

Figure 29. Gaucho riding line on an estancia along Ruta 40 in northern Patagonia.

Figure 30. The red-backed hawk is common along Ruta 40.

Figure 31. One of the few snakes we saw in northern Patagonia.

Figure 32. Creosote bush in northern Patagonia.

Figure 33. The northern Patagonian Desert reminds me of the Mohave Desert.

Ruta 40 finally leaves Patagonia behind as we cross into Mendoza Province at the Rio Colorado and its tributaries (Figures 34 & 35). The landscape changes dramatically, from the low rolling desert plains of Patagonia to more volcanic desert rock formations (Figures 36 to 38). Along Ruta 40 we experience desert thundershowers that flood the ripio (dirt) road (Figures 39 to 41).

Figure 34. Rio Barrancas is one of the tributaries of the Rio Colorado which defines the northern limit of Patagonia.

Figure 35. Ruta 40 as it enters Mendoza Province.

Figure 36. Rio Barrancas with volcanic lava flows in the background.

Figure 37. The Rio Grande has cut a channel in the lava flow.

Figure 38. Another view of the Rio Grande.

Figure 39. Sign along Ruta 40 letting us know the problems ahead.

Figure 40. Ruta 40 after flash flood, we missed it by only a few hours.

Figure 41. Another view of Ruta 40 after the flash flood.

As we approach Mendoza, we drive through the Canyon Rio Atuel. Locals call it the mini Grand Canyon (Figures 42 to 44).

Figure 42. Canon Rio Atuel, Mendoza.

Figure 43. Another view of the Canyon Rio Atuel.

Figure 44. Still another view.

Sharon and I try our first wine tasting in the city of San Rafael south of Mendoza. We are not much impressed except for the organic winery of “Numerado de Abel Orrea”. Felix (in the photo) is the vintner and his Malbec is quite tasty, if a bit young (Figure 45).

Figure 45. The organic viña of “Numerado de Abel Orrea” Malbec.

I was surprised at the size and diversity of Argentina. There is no way I can do it in two parts. Thus, you will have to suffer through a Part III and possibly a Part IV before we leave for home.

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Vinos y Sabores: Chile y Argentina

For Chile and Argentina, South America’s wine rich countries I decided to collect photos of the wine and cuisine we enjoyed along the route. Upon crossing into Chile it was obvious we were in a wine-rich country. Wine is a part of everyday life – the young couple camping at Pta. Camarones in Cuya immediately offered us a drink but not before pouring some wine on the ground to toast their Chilean ancestors. This wonderful wine sampling continued through Chile and Argentina. Needless to say, wherever there is good wine there is also good food. In Argentina I also discovered some of the tango legends such as Carlos Gardel and Astor Piazzolla. The following i-photos cover Chile and Argentina.



Sharon
February 19, 2010
Salta, Argentina