Chile

Chile:

A Breath of Fresh Air:

(19 November – 14 December 2009)

Our border crossing into Chile went easier than any so far. Even the pets went fast. Our first few days were spent in a campground north of Arica. Arica is a beautiful town in the desert, along the coast in northern Chile (Figure 1). We spent most of two days trying to find a place to issue the “Seguros Obligatorios” that is required. However, the first day we find all insurance offices are closed for a special holiday (“Dia del Seguros”). Then we can not find anyone who issues the vehicle insurance.

Figure 1. Street scene in Arica.

We spend the next two days driving south. We camp at a nice beach the first night (Figures 2 & 3), then a river in the desert (Figures 4 & 5). We observe some interesting wildlife (Figure 6). On the way there are several areas with ancient rock drawings or geoglyphs (Figures 7 & 8).

Figure 2. Camp at Caleta Camarones south of Arica.

Figure 3. Beach at Caleta Camarones south of Arica.

Figure 4. Camp at Rio Loa, a desert river valley.

Figure 5. Rio Loa, a desert river valley.

Figure 6. Lizard at the river camp.















Figure 7. Geoglyphs of guanacos and other animals.

Figure 8. Geoglyphs of sunburst and human.

We drive on south through the driest desert in the World, the Atacama Desert (Figure 9), and continue past the Tropic of Capricorn (Figure 10). We spend the night at Antofagasto a rather large city on the coast in northern Chile (Figure 11).

Figure 9. The Panamerican Highway in the Atacama Desert.

Figure 10. Tropic Capricorn on the Panamerican Highway just north of Antofagasta.














Figure 11. The beach at Antofagasta.

Our trip takes us through some fantastic desert in spring bloom, after all it is late November in the Southern Hemisphere (Figures 12 -15). We spend a couple of days relaxing in a resort just north of a small town called Tal Tal (Figure 16).

Figure 12. Wildflowers north of Tal Tal.














Figure 13. Copulating beetles in the desert north of Tal Tal. The spring bloom is not just for flowers.

Figure 14. Wildflower in desert north of Tal Tal.















Figure 15. More wildflowers.

Figure 16. View of the bay at Cabañas Hueso, Tal Tal, where we spent two nights.

As we travel south, the desert slowly gives way to desert scrub (Figure 17), then to chaparral (Figure 18) as we approach Santiago (Figure 19). It reminds me of California.

Figure 17. Desert Scrub between Tal Tal and Serrano.

Figure 18. Chaparral north of Santiago.














Figure 19. Panamerican Highway north of Santiago.

We spend no time in Santiago. Instead, we head south to the wine country of the Colchagua Valley near the town of Santa Cruz. We take a room for three nights in a small boutique Hotel Entre Viñas. It is a converted old hacienda, dating from the late 1800’s (Figure 20 & 21). The breakfasts were fantastic.

Figure 20. Hotel Entre Viñas at breakfast.

Figure 21. The grounds at Hotel Entre Viñas.

Our first day near Santa Cruz we visit the Vu Manent winery (Figure 22). We have lunch in their restaurant (Figures 23 & 24). The wines are good, but the Malbec is their prize (Figure 25). I liked the “Secrete” blend (Figure 26). It is 85% Malbec and 15% a secrete. It is very good.

Figure 22. Viña Viu Manent entrance to tasting and restaurant.

Figure 23. Lunch at Viña Viu Manent.


















Figure 24. Of course, wine with lunch at Viña Viu Manent.

Figure 25. Tasting the Malbec at Viu Manent.














Figure 26. Other wines are also good. This one is a “secrete” blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, and Malbec.

Over the next two days (29/30 November 2009) we visit several other wineries. The one we liked the best was a relatively new viña called Viña Mont Gras. We loved all of their wines (Figure 27). We tried each of their wines, and liked the Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah blend the best (Figures 28 - 30). We bought a bottle of each (Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah blend, Malbec, Carmenere, and Cabernet Sauvignon). A few days is just not enough. We will return to the wine regions of Chile.

Figure 27. Viña Mont Gras.

Figure 28. John tasting at Viña Mont Gras.














Figure 29. Tasting at Viña Mont Gras (Sharon, Karla, and host).

Figure 30. Karla and Sharon in the Viña Mont Gras sales room.

We continue south to the Lake Region in southern Chile. Gary and I want to try the trout fishing. We visit several nation parks, and I get to see my first southern beech trees (Nothofagus sp.). There are several species (Figure 31 & 32). We also see a variety of birds (Figures 33 & 34). We have several camps, but one we enjoy is at the headwaters of the Rio Bio Bio (Figure 35 & 36). We try our luck fishing, but do not even get a hit.

Figure 31. Southern beech with volcano in background on the way to Curacautín.

Figure 32. Southern beech at Los Troncas.


















Figure 33. Chimango Cara Cara in our camp at Campground Los Raudales.

Figure 34. Black Faced Ibis near our camp at Ecoparque Lemucura.














Figure 35. Sunset at our camp on Rio Bio Bio.

Figure 36. Gary setting camp on Rio Bio Bio.














We move on to Parque Nacional Congillio where there are beautiful forests of southern beech and araucaria (sometimes called monkey puzzle tree). These are quite primeval looking (Figures 37 & 38). We have a nice camp in the park very close to Lago Conguillio (Figure 39). The views are spectacular (Figures 40 – 42). We do have some luck fishing, but it is nothing to show (see us in Argentina on the next blog posting).

Figure 37. Araucaria Forest in Parque Nacional Conguillio.

Figure 38. Southern beech in Parque Nacional Congillio.


















Figure 39. Ewok in our camp at Congillio.

Figure 40. View of Laguna Conguillio and surrounding Andes mountains.














Figure 41. Lava field and Volcano Lliama in P. N. Conguillio.

Figure 42. Active Volcano Lliama.














We split from Gary and Karla to travel our own route for a couple of weeks. We plan to meet again in Argentina. We drive on to Puerto Varas to camp at Playa Niklitschek (Figure 43 & 44). We spend a couple of days exploring the area and other national parks. When we leave to head toward the Argentine border, I stop to fish and have a bit better luck (Figure 45).

Figure 43. Camp at Playa Niklitsheck on Lago Llanquihue with Sharon and Ewok.

Figure 44. View of Volcano Osorno from Playa Niklitsheck.














Figure 45. John with 14” rainbow trout from Lago Llanquihue.

As we leave Lago Llanquihue, we have a blow out on the left rear tire. I change the tire. The spare is a small emergency tire. We have to go to Osorno to see about getting a new tire. Of course it is Saturday afternoon, and all regular businesses are closed. We do find a used tire place that has a tire that fits. However, it is not the exact size (245/65R17, while our's are 255/60R17). It will have to do until Monday when we can try to get a correct size tire. Now the decision is whether to drive on to Argentina or stay near Osorno until Monday. We think the chances are better that we will get two correct size tires in Argentina. We need two since they have to be very close to the same size and ours have been wearing for over 20,000 km. In hind sight, that was a big mistake (see our next blog on Argentina).

Chile (3310 miles recorded) was a pleasant return to normalcy after Peru.

Chile: Las Rutas de --Los Vinos, Los Rios, Los Lagos, etc

Chile: The Long Wonderful Slice of Geographic Diversity

Our journey south resulted in a smooth border crossing from Peru into Chile at Arica on November 14, 2009. The only difference this time they checked everything; so we had to take everything out of the SUV and put it through an x-ray machine to enter Chile from Peru. Enter permits for Amadeus and Ewok were processed very efficiently. After reviewing all the prior documents they valued most the Panamian vetinarian documentation, with the two official stamps (that took me all day to get in Panama City).

Part 1: Las Rutas de -- Los Vinos, Los Rios, Los Lagos, Los etc.

Our travels through Chile took us to different regions. We continued coastal desert journey stopping at Arica (camped), Cuya (camped at Pta. Camarones), Autofagasta (Hotel del Sur), Taltal (Cabañas Hueso), and North of Los Vilos (camped).

Next, it was onto San Fernando (Hotel Espanola) and Santa Cruz in the Central Valley where we enjoyed some of the best cuisine and wine in the world (Entre Viñas – wonderful boutique hotel). As usual after I inquire about room availability – I ask if they accept pets. If they do not out right refuse I show a photo of Ewok on my i-phone. In this case since we planned on staying three nights I informed them of also of Amadeus. The response was – o.k. … You look like a cultured lady so we accept … “su perrita, gatito y pajarito”.

Continuing south to the lake district we visited Recinto (Cabañas), Pinto (camped), Rio Bio Bio (camped at Naciemento of Rio Bio Bio)) Parque National Conguillo (camped), Villarrica (Cabañas Bungalowlandia), Peurto Varas (camped at Playa Niklitschek), Ensenada (camped at Camping Montanya) and Pueyehue (Cabañas Copihues).

Again, we had anticipated hot weather late November through mid-December, but it was a great weather for travel. We were just before the tourist season making finding a camp spot or accommodations was easy. The Chilean Police are totally professional – if we were stopped it was a reminder like (turn on your headlights).

Part 2: Chilean Patagonia and Tierra Del Feugo

After spending the holiday season in Bariloche, Argentina and traveling south on Argentina (Ruta 40) we re-entered Chile in Patagonia enroute to Ushuaia, Tierra Del Feugo (a small part of which is also in Chile). This time we visited Parque Nacional Torres Del Paine (Refugio Laguna Azul), Punta Arenas (camped near the airport and at Donde Juan; Hostal Bulnes). We returned to Punta Arenas after Tierra Del Feugo to begin treatment for our Ewok (15.5 years old), as she was just diagnosed with Leukemia. It possible that she can live up to 2 years with the disease – but, we’ll see. We are most fortunate that Punta Arenas has good veterinary care and we received excellent advice from Dr. Tatiana Lopez.

We enjoyed our journey through Chile the following i-movie captures some images from our travels.

Sharon
Punta Arenas, Chile
January 13, 2010

Part 1



Part 2

Peru: The Coastal Route

Peru has three primary regions - coastal (desert), highlands (Andes) and tropical (Amazon). While there are so many possible places to visit in Peru our journey took us along the coastal route. We had a smooth border crossing from Ecuador into Peru at Macara. We were treated well; one of the Peruvian officials even gave us some great tips on places to visit along the coast.

Our stop-overs along the coast included mostly small towns such as Colan (Colan Beach Lodge), Sipan (camped at the museum), Tortuga (El Farol Hostel) Chancay(small hotel), Pucusana (Mirador Hospedaje), Itaca (Camino Real) and Puerto Inca (camped). The one exception on the route was a side trip to the famous white stone city of Arequipa (Hotel Mercedes - camped).

We had anticipated hot weather because of the desert climate along the coast – but November, was a great month to head south along the coast. As we traveled along the coastal desert we encountered green belts/agriculture regions which were feed by rivers flowing from the Andes. The breeze off the Pacific Ocean was great!!! In our travels through Peru our only challenge was being stopped by the Peruvian Police – they were mostly friendly except near the big cities of Lima and Arequipa.

We enjoyed our journey along the Peruvian coast the following i-movie captures some images from our travels.

Sharon
Bariloche, Argentina
December 2009

Peru

Peru:

Back to the Old Latin Stereotype:

(8 November - 19 November 2009)

Our border crossing into was very easy and fast. We did not have to register the dog and cat according to the agriculture inspector. Later we found out that we were supposed to do it. I guess the border inspector just did not want to take the time. We should have expected something was awry. Also, at the border, the vehicle inspection was easy, and the Aduana (SUNAT) said we did not need auto insurance YOU BET, see below (Figure 1).

Figure 1. Waiting for permits in Peru was very easy.

We started Peru in vegetation very similar to that we left in Ecuador, dry forest (Figure 2). It soon changed to very dry desert scrub and then to desert with no or very little vegetation (Figure 3).

Figure 2. Dry forest off the Panamerican Highway in northern Peru near the Macara border crossing.

Figure 3. The almost lifeless desert in northern Peru.

We stayed two nights in a very comfortable resort, The Playa Colán Lodge on the Pacific Coast (Figures 4 & 5). The food was excellent. It was a rough time at Playas Colán (Figures 6 &; 7).

Figure 4. Playas Colán Lodge swiming pool.

Figure 5. The beach at Playas Colán Lodge.

Figure 6. Playas Colán Lodge sunset.

Figure 7. Cocktails at Playa Colán Lodge.

We saw a lot of birds (Figures 8 to 10).

Figure 8. Black-neckied stilts at Playa Colán.

Figure 9. Magnificent Frigate bird at Playa Colán (at the port of Paita).

Figure 10. Vermillion Flycatcher at Playa Colán.

We drove south through the desert and cultivated river valleys to an archeological site known as Sipan. There are some interesting ruins (Figures 11 & 12). We also saw a fox (Figure 13) in the cane fields outside of Sipan.

Figure 11. Archeological dig at Sipan. The hill is actually an adobe pyramid.

Figure 12. The "Lord of Sipan", original gold, silver, and tourquoise in the museum in Lima.















Figure 13. Fox (Lycalopex culpaeus) near Sipan.

We drove on south towards Lima. It is a long drive through desert after desert after desert (Figures 14 to 16). Again we saw a lot of birds (Figure 17 & 18).

Figure 14. Desert Sand dunes south of Sipan.

Figure 15. Tortugas Bay, we stayed the night.















Figure 16. Desert Beach north of Lima.

Figure 17. Peruvian peliican at Tortugas Bay.

Figure 18. Blackish oyster catcher at Tortugas Bay.

Things got a bit worse as we approached Lima. In a small town (Chancay) north of Lima, Gary was stopped by the police for a traffic infraction. The police were going to take his license and car title. It would take two days to get them via legal means. However, the police gave him an option to pay a fine on the spot to avoid the delay. Of course, Gary took the option. What can we do? If we claim the police made the offer, would a judge believe us? Then as we entered Lima, I was pulled over by a “National Police” officer (his name was A. Salvadorre). He asked to see our papers. All was in order. He checked our safety equipment. All was in order. He asked to see our insurance. I said we did not have any since the Aduana at the border said we did not need it. He said it was obligatory. Then he said the fine was $400 U.S. He would take my license and car title to the police office until we paid the fine. We cloud not pay the fine that day (Friday). The earliest would be Monday, a wait of three days. But, he said we could pay him a smaller fine directly and we would not have to wait. Of course, I chose the latter to save time. This is why I call this blog “…the old Latin stereotype”. I could have probably beaten the “bribe” rip-off if I had wanted to wait until Monday.

We did not stay in Lima. Gary and I tried for several hours to get insurance, asking all over the place. Finally, a very nice taxi driver assisted us. He took us into downtown Lima where we finally found a company that would issue insurance to a foreign vehicle. We found many company that issued insurance but not to foreign buyers. It is a catch 22, since it is obligatory but almost no one will issue the insurance. How could we have gotten insurance at the border?

We drove south to Pucusana, a small town on a very nice bay. We stayed at a small Hosteria El Mirador that overlooks the bay (Figures 19 to 21). I am sick with the flu, so Sharon and I stay two nights. Gary and Karla move on after one night. We will meet again in Ica.

Figure 19. View of Pucusana Bay from El Mirador.

Figure 20. View of the sunset from El Mirador.






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Figure 21. Breakfast with Sharon, Karla, and Gary at El Mirador.

We met Gary and Karla in Ica. Then we drove through the Nazca lines area (Figures 22 to 25). They are best seen from the air, but you can get a feel for them from a tower.

Figure 22. Sign for the Nazca Lines.

Figure 23. The Nazca Lines from the tower, you cvan see part of the Lizard.

Figure 24. The two hands, one with 4, one with 5 fingers.

Figure 25. The tree of life (roots at top, branches at bottom of photo).

Our final nice place in Peru was at Puerta Inka, a resort on a beautiful bay that was once a major fishing port for the Inca. We stayed two nights (Figure 26), and saw several truck loads of tourist/campers (Figure 27). One was from Germany, another from Australia, and a third from Great Britain. However, none of these camper groups was only composed of people from one country they were a mix. The area had several excavations of the ruins (Figures 28 & 29).

Figure 26. Our Camp at Puerta Inka.

Figure 27. Camping groups at Puerta Inka.

Figure 28. Excavatiuon with human remains at Puerto Inka.

Figure 29. Excavation at Puerto Inka.

The desert south along the coast was spectacular, and it included some vegetation (Figures 30 to 34).

Figure 30. Road south from Puerto Inka.

Figure 31. Another view of the road south from Puerto Inka.

Figure 32. Flower on road south from Puerto Inka.
















Figure 33. Flower (looks like a stonecrop) on road south from Puerto Inka.

Figure 34. Cactus on road south from Puerto Inka.

We drove to Arequipa, but only stayed one night. This time Sharon was stopped by the police. They wanted to see our papers and insurance. Sharon showed the papers. The officer said we needed a different set of papers to show ownership of the car. This time we argued that we had the correct papers. After it was apparent to the officer that we could not be “bullied” he left us alone.

Then we were off to Tacna. The road went through some really desolate desert (Figures 35 & 36).

Figure 35. Isolated sand dunes in the desert south of Arequipa.

Figure 36. Desert south of Arequipa.

In Tacna, we were unable to get a room because of Ewok. Also, there was no camping in the area, so we went on to cross the border into Chile. Sharon is not feeling well. Apparently, she has the same flu that I had a few days ago.

The Panamerican Highway runs along the Pacific Coast of Peru. I indicated earlier that it is mostly desert gives a false impression. The desert is broken by lush green agriculture filled valleys every 50 to 75 km (Figures 37 & 38).

Figure 37. A very green, heavily farmed desert valley west of Arequipa.

Figure 38. Desert river valley in northern Peru.

With the exception of our corrupt police encounters, the old Latin stereotype, the trip through Peru was quite fascinating.

Peru (1825 miles) was an unpleasant return to the corrupt stereotype we had expected but not seen in other parts of Latin America.