Peru

Peru:

Back to the Old Latin Stereotype:

(8 November - 19 November 2009)

Our border crossing into was very easy and fast. We did not have to register the dog and cat according to the agriculture inspector. Later we found out that we were supposed to do it. I guess the border inspector just did not want to take the time. We should have expected something was awry. Also, at the border, the vehicle inspection was easy, and the Aduana (SUNAT) said we did not need auto insurance YOU BET, see below (Figure 1).

Figure 1. Waiting for permits in Peru was very easy.

We started Peru in vegetation very similar to that we left in Ecuador, dry forest (Figure 2). It soon changed to very dry desert scrub and then to desert with no or very little vegetation (Figure 3).

Figure 2. Dry forest off the Panamerican Highway in northern Peru near the Macara border crossing.

Figure 3. The almost lifeless desert in northern Peru.

We stayed two nights in a very comfortable resort, The Playa Colán Lodge on the Pacific Coast (Figures 4 & 5). The food was excellent. It was a rough time at Playas Colán (Figures 6 &; 7).

Figure 4. Playas Colán Lodge swiming pool.

Figure 5. The beach at Playas Colán Lodge.

Figure 6. Playas Colán Lodge sunset.

Figure 7. Cocktails at Playa Colán Lodge.

We saw a lot of birds (Figures 8 to 10).

Figure 8. Black-neckied stilts at Playa Colán.

Figure 9. Magnificent Frigate bird at Playa Colán (at the port of Paita).

Figure 10. Vermillion Flycatcher at Playa Colán.

We drove south through the desert and cultivated river valleys to an archeological site known as Sipan. There are some interesting ruins (Figures 11 & 12). We also saw a fox (Figure 13) in the cane fields outside of Sipan.

Figure 11. Archeological dig at Sipan. The hill is actually an adobe pyramid.

Figure 12. The "Lord of Sipan", original gold, silver, and tourquoise in the museum in Lima.















Figure 13. Fox (Lycalopex culpaeus) near Sipan.

We drove on south towards Lima. It is a long drive through desert after desert after desert (Figures 14 to 16). Again we saw a lot of birds (Figure 17 & 18).

Figure 14. Desert Sand dunes south of Sipan.

Figure 15. Tortugas Bay, we stayed the night.















Figure 16. Desert Beach north of Lima.

Figure 17. Peruvian peliican at Tortugas Bay.

Figure 18. Blackish oyster catcher at Tortugas Bay.

Things got a bit worse as we approached Lima. In a small town (Chancay) north of Lima, Gary was stopped by the police for a traffic infraction. The police were going to take his license and car title. It would take two days to get them via legal means. However, the police gave him an option to pay a fine on the spot to avoid the delay. Of course, Gary took the option. What can we do? If we claim the police made the offer, would a judge believe us? Then as we entered Lima, I was pulled over by a “National Police” officer (his name was A. Salvadorre). He asked to see our papers. All was in order. He checked our safety equipment. All was in order. He asked to see our insurance. I said we did not have any since the Aduana at the border said we did not need it. He said it was obligatory. Then he said the fine was $400 U.S. He would take my license and car title to the police office until we paid the fine. We cloud not pay the fine that day (Friday). The earliest would be Monday, a wait of three days. But, he said we could pay him a smaller fine directly and we would not have to wait. Of course, I chose the latter to save time. This is why I call this blog “…the old Latin stereotype”. I could have probably beaten the “bribe” rip-off if I had wanted to wait until Monday.

We did not stay in Lima. Gary and I tried for several hours to get insurance, asking all over the place. Finally, a very nice taxi driver assisted us. He took us into downtown Lima where we finally found a company that would issue insurance to a foreign vehicle. We found many company that issued insurance but not to foreign buyers. It is a catch 22, since it is obligatory but almost no one will issue the insurance. How could we have gotten insurance at the border?

We drove south to Pucusana, a small town on a very nice bay. We stayed at a small Hosteria El Mirador that overlooks the bay (Figures 19 to 21). I am sick with the flu, so Sharon and I stay two nights. Gary and Karla move on after one night. We will meet again in Ica.

Figure 19. View of Pucusana Bay from El Mirador.

Figure 20. View of the sunset from El Mirador.






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Figure 21. Breakfast with Sharon, Karla, and Gary at El Mirador.

We met Gary and Karla in Ica. Then we drove through the Nazca lines area (Figures 22 to 25). They are best seen from the air, but you can get a feel for them from a tower.

Figure 22. Sign for the Nazca Lines.

Figure 23. The Nazca Lines from the tower, you cvan see part of the Lizard.

Figure 24. The two hands, one with 4, one with 5 fingers.

Figure 25. The tree of life (roots at top, branches at bottom of photo).

Our final nice place in Peru was at Puerta Inka, a resort on a beautiful bay that was once a major fishing port for the Inca. We stayed two nights (Figure 26), and saw several truck loads of tourist/campers (Figure 27). One was from Germany, another from Australia, and a third from Great Britain. However, none of these camper groups was only composed of people from one country they were a mix. The area had several excavations of the ruins (Figures 28 & 29).

Figure 26. Our Camp at Puerta Inka.

Figure 27. Camping groups at Puerta Inka.

Figure 28. Excavatiuon with human remains at Puerto Inka.

Figure 29. Excavation at Puerto Inka.

The desert south along the coast was spectacular, and it included some vegetation (Figures 30 to 34).

Figure 30. Road south from Puerto Inka.

Figure 31. Another view of the road south from Puerto Inka.

Figure 32. Flower on road south from Puerto Inka.
















Figure 33. Flower (looks like a stonecrop) on road south from Puerto Inka.

Figure 34. Cactus on road south from Puerto Inka.

We drove to Arequipa, but only stayed one night. This time Sharon was stopped by the police. They wanted to see our papers and insurance. Sharon showed the papers. The officer said we needed a different set of papers to show ownership of the car. This time we argued that we had the correct papers. After it was apparent to the officer that we could not be “bullied” he left us alone.

Then we were off to Tacna. The road went through some really desolate desert (Figures 35 & 36).

Figure 35. Isolated sand dunes in the desert south of Arequipa.

Figure 36. Desert south of Arequipa.

In Tacna, we were unable to get a room because of Ewok. Also, there was no camping in the area, so we went on to cross the border into Chile. Sharon is not feeling well. Apparently, she has the same flu that I had a few days ago.

The Panamerican Highway runs along the Pacific Coast of Peru. I indicated earlier that it is mostly desert gives a false impression. The desert is broken by lush green agriculture filled valleys every 50 to 75 km (Figures 37 & 38).

Figure 37. A very green, heavily farmed desert valley west of Arequipa.

Figure 38. Desert river valley in northern Peru.

With the exception of our corrupt police encounters, the old Latin stereotype, the trip through Peru was quite fascinating.

Peru (1825 miles) was an unpleasant return to the corrupt stereotype we had expected but not seen in other parts of Latin America.