Peru

Peru:

Back to the Old Latin Stereotype:

(8 November - 19 November 2009)

Our border crossing into was very easy and fast. We did not have to register the dog and cat according to the agriculture inspector. Later we found out that we were supposed to do it. I guess the border inspector just did not want to take the time. We should have expected something was awry. Also, at the border, the vehicle inspection was easy, and the Aduana (SUNAT) said we did not need auto insurance YOU BET, see below (Figure 1).

Figure 1. Waiting for permits in Peru was very easy.

We started Peru in vegetation very similar to that we left in Ecuador, dry forest (Figure 2). It soon changed to very dry desert scrub and then to desert with no or very little vegetation (Figure 3).

Figure 2. Dry forest off the Panamerican Highway in northern Peru near the Macara border crossing.

Figure 3. The almost lifeless desert in northern Peru.

We stayed two nights in a very comfortable resort, The Playa Colán Lodge on the Pacific Coast (Figures 4 & 5). The food was excellent. It was a rough time at Playas Colán (Figures 6 &; 7).

Figure 4. Playas Colán Lodge swiming pool.

Figure 5. The beach at Playas Colán Lodge.

Figure 6. Playas Colán Lodge sunset.

Figure 7. Cocktails at Playa Colán Lodge.

We saw a lot of birds (Figures 8 to 10).

Figure 8. Black-neckied stilts at Playa Colán.

Figure 9. Magnificent Frigate bird at Playa Colán (at the port of Paita).

Figure 10. Vermillion Flycatcher at Playa Colán.

We drove south through the desert and cultivated river valleys to an archeological site known as Sipan. There are some interesting ruins (Figures 11 & 12). We also saw a fox (Figure 13) in the cane fields outside of Sipan.

Figure 11. Archeological dig at Sipan. The hill is actually an adobe pyramid.

Figure 12. The "Lord of Sipan", original gold, silver, and tourquoise in the museum in Lima.















Figure 13. Fox (Lycalopex culpaeus) near Sipan.

We drove on south towards Lima. It is a long drive through desert after desert after desert (Figures 14 to 16). Again we saw a lot of birds (Figure 17 & 18).

Figure 14. Desert Sand dunes south of Sipan.

Figure 15. Tortugas Bay, we stayed the night.















Figure 16. Desert Beach north of Lima.

Figure 17. Peruvian peliican at Tortugas Bay.

Figure 18. Blackish oyster catcher at Tortugas Bay.

Things got a bit worse as we approached Lima. In a small town (Chancay) north of Lima, Gary was stopped by the police for a traffic infraction. The police were going to take his license and car title. It would take two days to get them via legal means. However, the police gave him an option to pay a fine on the spot to avoid the delay. Of course, Gary took the option. What can we do? If we claim the police made the offer, would a judge believe us? Then as we entered Lima, I was pulled over by a “National Police” officer (his name was A. Salvadorre). He asked to see our papers. All was in order. He checked our safety equipment. All was in order. He asked to see our insurance. I said we did not have any since the Aduana at the border said we did not need it. He said it was obligatory. Then he said the fine was $400 U.S. He would take my license and car title to the police office until we paid the fine. We cloud not pay the fine that day (Friday). The earliest would be Monday, a wait of three days. But, he said we could pay him a smaller fine directly and we would not have to wait. Of course, I chose the latter to save time. This is why I call this blog “…the old Latin stereotype”. I could have probably beaten the “bribe” rip-off if I had wanted to wait until Monday.

We did not stay in Lima. Gary and I tried for several hours to get insurance, asking all over the place. Finally, a very nice taxi driver assisted us. He took us into downtown Lima where we finally found a company that would issue insurance to a foreign vehicle. We found many company that issued insurance but not to foreign buyers. It is a catch 22, since it is obligatory but almost no one will issue the insurance. How could we have gotten insurance at the border?

We drove south to Pucusana, a small town on a very nice bay. We stayed at a small Hosteria El Mirador that overlooks the bay (Figures 19 to 21). I am sick with the flu, so Sharon and I stay two nights. Gary and Karla move on after one night. We will meet again in Ica.

Figure 19. View of Pucusana Bay from El Mirador.

Figure 20. View of the sunset from El Mirador.






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Figure 21. Breakfast with Sharon, Karla, and Gary at El Mirador.

We met Gary and Karla in Ica. Then we drove through the Nazca lines area (Figures 22 to 25). They are best seen from the air, but you can get a feel for them from a tower.

Figure 22. Sign for the Nazca Lines.

Figure 23. The Nazca Lines from the tower, you cvan see part of the Lizard.

Figure 24. The two hands, one with 4, one with 5 fingers.

Figure 25. The tree of life (roots at top, branches at bottom of photo).

Our final nice place in Peru was at Puerta Inka, a resort on a beautiful bay that was once a major fishing port for the Inca. We stayed two nights (Figure 26), and saw several truck loads of tourist/campers (Figure 27). One was from Germany, another from Australia, and a third from Great Britain. However, none of these camper groups was only composed of people from one country they were a mix. The area had several excavations of the ruins (Figures 28 & 29).

Figure 26. Our Camp at Puerta Inka.

Figure 27. Camping groups at Puerta Inka.

Figure 28. Excavatiuon with human remains at Puerto Inka.

Figure 29. Excavation at Puerto Inka.

The desert south along the coast was spectacular, and it included some vegetation (Figures 30 to 34).

Figure 30. Road south from Puerto Inka.

Figure 31. Another view of the road south from Puerto Inka.

Figure 32. Flower on road south from Puerto Inka.
















Figure 33. Flower (looks like a stonecrop) on road south from Puerto Inka.

Figure 34. Cactus on road south from Puerto Inka.

We drove to Arequipa, but only stayed one night. This time Sharon was stopped by the police. They wanted to see our papers and insurance. Sharon showed the papers. The officer said we needed a different set of papers to show ownership of the car. This time we argued that we had the correct papers. After it was apparent to the officer that we could not be “bullied” he left us alone.

Then we were off to Tacna. The road went through some really desolate desert (Figures 35 & 36).

Figure 35. Isolated sand dunes in the desert south of Arequipa.

Figure 36. Desert south of Arequipa.

In Tacna, we were unable to get a room because of Ewok. Also, there was no camping in the area, so we went on to cross the border into Chile. Sharon is not feeling well. Apparently, she has the same flu that I had a few days ago.

The Panamerican Highway runs along the Pacific Coast of Peru. I indicated earlier that it is mostly desert gives a false impression. The desert is broken by lush green agriculture filled valleys every 50 to 75 km (Figures 37 & 38).

Figure 37. A very green, heavily farmed desert valley west of Arequipa.

Figure 38. Desert river valley in northern Peru.

With the exception of our corrupt police encounters, the old Latin stereotype, the trip through Peru was quite fascinating.

Peru (1825 miles) was an unpleasant return to the corrupt stereotype we had expected but not seen in other parts of Latin America.

Ecuador

Ecuador:

Land of the Equator

(21 October – 8 November 2009)

Our border crossing into Ecuador was the easiest yet. We would have finished in less than 30 minutes except for the paperwork for Ewok and Amadeus (Figure 1). Of course, this took over an hour.

Figure 1. Ewok waits for her Ecuador visa.

We drove south on the Panamerican Highway to the Equator, the real one (Figures 2 & 3). I say this because there is a place just outside Quito that is called the “Mitad Del Mundo” (Middle of the World). It is where French scientists in the 18th century determined the Equator’s position (Figure 4).

Figure 2. Sharon straddles the real Equator.

Figure 3. The Equator by my Garmin GPS off by only .003 minutes (Garmin error).

Figure 4. The wrong Equator with Juan Francisco, Miriam, Mateo, y Sharon.

We arrived in Quito, at the house of Miriam and Juan Francisco Carrera, on 22 October. They are the parents of Juan Pablo, Nicté’s boyfriend. Miriam and Juan Francisco put us up in their house for a week, and showed us Quito (Figures 5 & 6). They are wonderful people.

Figure 5. Quito at night.

Figure 6. Juan Francisco at a BBQ.

We left Quito (28 October) to drive south to Baños de Ambato where we will meet up with Gary and Karla. Baños is a town of thermal springs. We stayed at Monte Selva Hosteria for two nights, 28/29 October. The town is a tourist attraction (Figures 7 & 8).

Figure 7. Cathedral at Baños.

Figure 8. Monte Selva Hosteria in Baños.

Our next stop was at the quaint little town of Alausi, where there is a train that takes you to “El Nariz del Diablo” (the devil’s nose). Gary, Karla, Sharon, Ewok, and I are just in time to catch the train on 30 October (Figures 9 to 15). The train ride is considered to be quite exciting, and many tourists find it a highlight of their visit. Prior to 2007, one could ride on top of the train for a full experience.

Figure 9. Alausi Train Station.

Figure 10. Conductor on the train to Devil's Nose.

Figure 11. Train to Devils Nose, the tracks in the valley.

Figure 12. Alausi train to Devil's Nose, Gary and John.

Figure 13. Picking the Devil's Nose.

Figure 14. Safety on the tracks.

Figure 15. Safety on the tracks, maybe a few new ties?

It was late when we got off the train, so we made it only as far as the Inca ruins of Ingapirca where we camped for the night (Figures 16). Here we met Eddie and Bridget, a couple from Switzerland who have been traveling in South America for the past four years. They have a fantastic “motorhome” for their trip (Figure 17). Their motorhome is a huge 6X6, custom built.

Figure 16. Camp in parking lot at Ingapirca.

Figure 17. The Swiss motorhome of Eddie and Bridget.

In the morning, 31 October, we examine the Inca ruins. It supposedly is the northern-most Inca ruins known (Figures 18 to 21).

Figure 18. Ingapirca Ruins.

Figure 19. Cooking area in the Ingapirca Ruins.

Figure 20. Observatory and temple of the sun at Ingapirca.

Figure 21. Gary, Sharon, Ewok, and John at entrance to the Observatory.

We drive on through the Andean Highlands to Baños de Cuenca. The highlands are home to many indigenous people and interesting photo opportunities (Figures 22 to 25).

Figure 22. Andean field worker.

Figure 23. Andean women herding milk cows.

Figure 24. Two women by the roadside.

Figure 25. Roasting pig along roadside.

When we arrive in Cuenca, we decide to spend a couple of nights in Baños (31 October & 1 November leaving on 2 November), another thermal hot springs town. We are allowed to camp at Hosteria Durán for two nights (Figure 26 to 28).

Figure 26. Our camp at Baños de Cuenca.

Figure 27. Volcanic Dike at Baños de Cuenca.

Figure 28. Church in Baños de Cuenca.

After two days we move to Cabaños Yanuncay in Cuenca (2-5 November). Humberto, the owner, allows camping. There is a French couple in a Peugeot camper and Eddie and Bridget, the Swiss couple we spoke of before. Gary and Karla went to Parque Nacional Las Cajas. We wanted to go, but they do not allow pets. We have Ewok and Amadeus. We did get a feel for Las Cajas as we drove the road to the entrance (Figures 29 and 30).

Figure 29. Vista from the road to Las Cajas National Park.

Figure 30. Entrance to Las Cajas with sign indicating no pets.

Our stay at Cabaños Yanuncay is nice but unremarkable. We spend a lot of time looking in the city for propane and other necessities. Cuenca is quite beautiful (Figures 31 to 34).

Figure 31. Central Cuenca with Plaza San Francisco in foreground.

Figure 32. Panama hat factory in Cuenca.

Figure 33. John with a $260 Panama hat.

Figure 34. Camp at Cabañas Yanuncay in Cuenca.

On 5 November we leave Cuenca to drive south over a Gima Trojillo Pass at 3500 m. Just south of this pass we see a brocket deer crossing the road (Figure 35). We drive on to the small highland town of Saraguro where we have lunch (I have cui, guinea pig). The town was settled by people displaced from their original homeland by the Incas prior to Spanish takeover. It is a colorful town (Figures 36 to 38).

Figure 35. Brocket deer crossing road near Gima Trojillo Pass.

Figure 36. Saraguro Church.

Figure 37. Saraguro Woman.

Figure 38. My lunch of cui (guinea pig).

We met up with Gary and Karla at Loja. We decided to drive into the Amazon side of the Andes to a town called Zamora where there is a nice lodge, Cabañas Ecologicas Copalinga. It is run by a Belgium couple. The area is just outside Podocarpus National Park, and is a birder’s paradise (Figures 39 to 45).

Figure 39. Squirrel Cuckoo.

Figure 40. Speckled Chachalaca.

Figure 41. Kestrel.

Figure 42. Orange-Bellied Euphonia.

Figure 43. Magpie Tanager.

Figure 44. Green Honey Creeper.

Figure 45. Blue-necked Tanager.

We leave Copalinga after two days to drive to Macara on the border with Peru. We are able to find a camping area in a military base. The Comandante says it is OK to camp at his base. It is quite comfortable (Figure 46). The next day (we cross the border at Macara into Peru. Along the river on the Ecuador side we see squirrel monkeys playing in the bamboo (Figure 47). The dry forest around Macara is dominated with the Cebo tree (Figure 48).

Figure 46. Camp at Macara military base.

Figure 47. Squirrel Monkeys at the Macara border with Peru.

Figure 48. Cebo tree (what the locals call it) in dry forest near Macara.

Ecuador was a pleasant surprise in South America.

Sabores: America Sur

Starting in Cartagena, Columbia I continued to collect some samples of the cuisine we enjoyed along the route through the Americas. South America was the beginning of a new culinary adventure. We totally enjoyed the foods of Columbia!!! In Ecuador Miram and Juan feed us too well, we got to try lots of local food (awesome fruits, corn and more). Of course, in Peru we tried the pisco sour. The following i-photo sabores cover Columbia through Peru.

Sharon
December 2009
Villarrica, Chile