Argentina Part III

Argentina Part III:

Wine Tasting:

(Various in January and February 2010)

Our first visit to viñas (bodegas) in Argentina was with the organic vineyard in San Rafael noted in my last log. However, in January and February we had the occasion to visit several wineries in the Merndoza, San Juan, and Salta Provinces. In general, the wines are quite good, and would measure up to any in California. In fact, they would do quite well against and wines in the world.

Our first major tour was in the Province of San Juan where Sharon and I hired a taxi to take us to several local bodegas. First we visited a “Champaign” bodega just west of the city of San Juan (Figures 1 & 2). This sparkling wine bodega is considered one of the best in San Juan. Maybe, but my thoughts are that it would have a hard time competing with even the most modest sparkling wine in California. Do not get me wrong, it is not bad. It is just not all that good. They also make some reds (Figure 3). However, we were not allowed to taste any. I bought a bottle of Merlot anyway. None of us liked the Merlot they produced. In fact, we threw it out after a single taste.

Figure 1. Bodega Cavas de Zonada, a sparkling wine bodega.

Figure 2. The bodega is located in an old tunnel that was created in 1928.

Figure 3. This bodega also makes some reds.

The next winery was Bodega Graffigna (Figure 4). The reds they produce are quite good (Figure 5). They claim to age their premium wines for 12 months in either French or American (Figures 6 & 7). We do buy several bottles of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon (Figure 8).

Figure 4. Bodega Graffigna in San Juan, Argentina.

Figure 5. Here I tried several of the red wines produced by Bodega Graffigna.

Figure 6. French oak barrel used to age wines at Bodega Graffigna.

Figure 7. American oak barrel used to age wines at Bodega Graffigna.

Figure 8. Sharon buying several bottles of red at Bodega Graffigna.

Our final bodega was a very small winery that produces only a few thousand liters of each variety a year (Figure 9) for export. However, they produce some vino patero for local consumption (Figure 10). The vino patero is not a particularly good red wine. It comes in 5 liter bottles. They allow us to taste four different red wines and two white, which I decline; Sharon does not (Figure 11). This was our first taste of a different variety, Bonarda (Figure 12). According to the young women, Bonarda is unique to Argentina. It is a very smooth, fruity wine. Later we try other Bonardas from a number of bodegas.

Figure 9. Bodega La Guarda.

Figure 10. Vino Patero produced by Bodega La Guarda.

Figure 11. Sharon tries all the wines at Bodega La Guarda.

Figure 12. I examine a bottle of Bonarda at Bodega La Guarda.

We drive north to the small town of Cafayate which is relatively well known for its red wines in the souther part of Valles Calchaquíes. Gary, Karla, Sharon, and I visit a number of wineries in the area. Our first was Bodega Etchart (Figure 13 & 14). They produce several very good wines including a sweet, desert, late harvest Torrontes (Figure 15). Torrontes, a very dry white wine, is another wine that Argentine wineries claim is unique to Argentina. Of course, since I do not like white wine, it was not my favorite. I especially enjoyed the tour because it was the first one I have been on where they were actually producing wine as we watched (Figures 16 & 17); The winery is over 170 years old (Figure 18). I try and buy several of their wines (Figure 19), including the late harvest Torrontes which is quite good.

Figure 13. Bodega Etchart outside the small town of Cafayate.

Figure 14. The Ruta del Vino in Salta Province, Sharon at Bodega Etchart.

Figure 15. Bodega Etchart produces several different wines.

Figure 16. Bringing the grapes to the bodega.

Figure 17. Starting the wine production by placing the grapes into the crusher.

Figure 18. Etchart Bodega was founded in 1850.

Figure 19. We try several of the reds and the late harvest Torrontes.

We also visit several “organic” wineries in the Valles Calchaquíes (Figures 20 to 22).

Figure 20. One of the "organic" winneries, Bodega Nanni.

Figure 21. Another organic winery, Bodega Nubes.

Figure 22. The vinyard at Bodega Nubes.

On a trip through the scenic Quebrada de Cafayate, we unexpectedly find a small bodega, Las Casa de la Bodega (Figure 23 & 24). This is a boutique hotel and small exclusive winery about 16 km northeast of Cafayate. Unfortunately, we are a bit too late to taste their wines.

Figure 23. Las Casa de la Bodega.

Figure 24. Pool at the boutique hotel.

Probably the most famous of the Cafayate wineries is Bodega El Esteco (Figure 25) producing several well known labels, including “Elementos”, “Don David”, and “Ciclos”. The tasting is expensive. We have to buy a “flight” of three to four wines. Each taste is a glass of wine for each label. So we each take a different flight and share. We try all of them (Figures 26 to 28).

Figure 25. The main building at Bodega El Esteca.

Figure 26. Sharon, Gary, and Karla in the tasting room at Bodega El Esteco.

Figure 27. John, Gary, Karla, and Sharon taste different wines at Bodega El Esteca.

Figure 28. Our hostess, Florencia, serves the wine at Bodega El Esteca.

On our way north on Ruta 40 in Salta Province, we go off the road 16 km to another boutique hotel and winery, Bodega Colome (Figure 29 & 30). We have a snack and try some of their wines which are very good and expensive (Figure 31). The cost for a night at the hotel for two is US $340. We decide to camp in the beautiful desert nearby (Figure 32 & 33). At camp we try some of our wines (Figure 34 & 35).

Figure 29. Boutique Hotel and Bodega Colome.

Figure 30. The Hotel Colome.

Figure 31. Gary, Karla, and Sharon try some snacks and wine at the restaurant at Bodega Colome.

Figure 32. Our camp near Bodega Colome.

Figure 33. The desert near our camp.

Figure 34. The Merlot from Bodega Nubes.

Figure 35. The late harvest (Cosecha Tardia) Torrontes for dessert in the desert.

On our way back to the Lake Region around Lago Nahuel Huapi, we stop for a last tasting at the bodega of familia Schroeder near Neuquen , with one label of Saurus (Figure 36 & 37). The winery was built on top of a Mesosoic paleontological area (Figure 38), hence the lable name. We try three of the reds. They are all quite good. We like the Pinot Noir for its bouquet of anis and taste of chocolate. We buy 6 bottles (Figure 39).

Figure 36. Bodega Schroeder with the Saurus label.

Figure 37. Saurus Restaurant and Bodega.

Figure 38. Display of the fossils at the bodega.

Figure 39. Sharon buying our stash of Saurus reds.

Interestingly, we find that everyone gets into the wine act in Argentina, this in San Juan (Figure 40).

Figure 40. This photo needs no title.

The wines of Argentina run the gamut of bad to good. We have only tried a few of the many bodegas, but give us time.

Search Amazon.com for Cafayate +argentina

Argentina Part II

Argentina Part II:

Ushuaia to San Rafael, Mendoza:

(8 January to 25 January 2010)

We leave Karla and Gary for our trip back north. They are going on an Antarctic cruise for 10 days. We return to Club Nautico in Rio Grande for a night. The next day we catch the last ferry out of Bahia Azul (Figure 1) to cross the Straights of Magellan (Figure 2). On the ferry trip, we see dolphins (Figure 3 & 4).

Figure 1. Ferry north from Bahia Azul across the Straights of Magellan.

Figure 2. Ferry crossing the Straights of Magellan with Tierra del Fuego in Background.

Figure 3. Dolphins surfing the ferry wake.

Figure 4. Dolphins in the wake of the ferry.

We spend several days in Punta Arenas, Chile because our dog Ewok is sick, and needs to see a veterinarian. While there we visit the penguin colony at Seno (Sound) Otway (Figure 5 and 6). There are also other birds in the area (Figure 7 & 8). The vegetation is typical of the Patagonian Steppe (Figure 9).

Figure 5. Magellanic penguins at Seno Otway.

Figure 6. Magellanic Penguins, adult and two chicks.

Figure 7. Austral negrito (a flycatcher) at the penguin colony.

Figure 8. Long-tailed meadowlark at the penguin colony.

Figure 9. Patagonian wildflowers.

Once back in Argentina, we drive north on Ruta 3 along the Atlantic coast (Figure 10). We stay one night in the Municipal Campground in Puerto San Julian (Figure 11). This is one of the bays (Figure 12) visited by Magellan in the Spanish Galleon Victoria (Figure 13) , and later mapped by Fitzroy while on HMS Beagle. Along Ruta 3 we see a variety of wildlife (Figures 14 to 16). We also observe working gauchos on the estancias (Figure 17).

Figure 10. The Atlantic Coast north of Caleta Olivia.

Figure 11. Camp at Puerto San Julian.

Figure 12. The bay at Puerto San Julian.

Figure 13. Model of Magellan's ship Victoria in Puerto San Julian.

Figure 14. Grey fox south Rio Gallegos on Ruta 3.

Figure 15. Lesser rhea south Rio Gallegos on Ruta 3.

Figure 16. Puma scat in Parque Nacional Monte Leon.

Figure 17. Gaucho on Ruta 3.

As we head west across Patagonia on RN 26, we see the oilfields (Figure 18). We also have trouble getting gasoline (nafta) in several areas. In fact, we had to sit in line at Gobenador Costa for several hours while we waited for the gasoline truck to deliver (Figure 19). Luckily, we were 12th in a line of over 60 cars. We did see some neat elegant crested tinamous in this apart of Patagonia (Figure 20).

Figure 18. Patagonia oilfields inland from Comodor Rivadavia.

Figure 19. Waiting in line for gasoline to be delivered.

Figure 20. Elegant Crested Tinamous near Fangano, Patagonia.

We returned to Bariloche for a five day stay before heading on north. We drove around Lagos Nahuel Huapi and Mendez (Figures 21 & 22) for a day of sight seeing.
Figure 21. Bariloche from across Lago Nahuel Huapi.

Figure 22. Sharon and Lago Mendez with Lago Hahuel Huapi in background.

On our way north on Ruta 40, I stop to fish on the Rio Limay (Figure 23 & 24). We continue north to Junin de los Andes where we camp for the night. The scenery is breath taking (Figures 25 & 26). I do fish and catch several trout on the Rio Chimehuin, but they are small, nothing over 16 inches.

Figure 23. The Rio Limay where I fish for a while but catch nothing.

Figure 24. The Rio Limay is famous for its trout.

Figure 25. A volcanic rock formation called “Dedos de Dios” along Ruta 40.

Figure 26 Volcan Lanin seen from Ruta 40.

On our way out of Junin de los Andes, we stop at a condor observation site. The condors nest on the ledges of the cliffs (Figure 27). White wash from their defecation can be seen below the ledges. I see a condor on the cliff with binoculars, but am unable to photograph it at this distance.

Figure 27. Condor observation site, on the cliff you can see white wash where the birds defecate.

Along Ruta 40 in northern Patagonia, there are numerous cattle estancias rather than the sheep or sheep/cattle estancias of the south (Figures 28 & 29). We also see somne interesting wildlife (Figures 30 & 31). This part of Patagonia resembles parts of the Mohave Desert in the western USA (Figures 32 & 33).

Figure 28. Estancia on Ruta 40 in northern Patagonia.

Figure 29. Gaucho riding line on an estancia along Ruta 40 in northern Patagonia.

Figure 30. The red-backed hawk is common along Ruta 40.

Figure 31. One of the few snakes we saw in northern Patagonia.

Figure 32. Creosote bush in northern Patagonia.

Figure 33. The northern Patagonian Desert reminds me of the Mohave Desert.

Ruta 40 finally leaves Patagonia behind as we cross into Mendoza Province at the Rio Colorado and its tributaries (Figures 34 & 35). The landscape changes dramatically, from the low rolling desert plains of Patagonia to more volcanic desert rock formations (Figures 36 to 38). Along Ruta 40 we experience desert thundershowers that flood the ripio (dirt) road (Figures 39 to 41).

Figure 34. Rio Barrancas is one of the tributaries of the Rio Colorado which defines the northern limit of Patagonia.

Figure 35. Ruta 40 as it enters Mendoza Province.

Figure 36. Rio Barrancas with volcanic lava flows in the background.

Figure 37. The Rio Grande has cut a channel in the lava flow.

Figure 38. Another view of the Rio Grande.

Figure 39. Sign along Ruta 40 letting us know the problems ahead.

Figure 40. Ruta 40 after flash flood, we missed it by only a few hours.

Figure 41. Another view of Ruta 40 after the flash flood.

As we approach Mendoza, we drive through the Canyon Rio Atuel. Locals call it the mini Grand Canyon (Figures 42 to 44).

Figure 42. Canon Rio Atuel, Mendoza.

Figure 43. Another view of the Canyon Rio Atuel.

Figure 44. Still another view.

Sharon and I try our first wine tasting in the city of San Rafael south of Mendoza. We are not much impressed except for the organic winery of “Numerado de Abel Orrea”. Felix (in the photo) is the vintner and his Malbec is quite tasty, if a bit young (Figure 45).

Figure 45. The organic viña of “Numerado de Abel Orrea” Malbec.

I was surprised at the size and diversity of Argentina. There is no way I can do it in two parts. Thus, you will have to suffer through a Part III and possibly a Part IV before we leave for home.

Search Amazon.com for Mendoza + wine

Vinos y Sabores: Chile y Argentina

For Chile and Argentina, South America’s wine rich countries I decided to collect photos of the wine and cuisine we enjoyed along the route. Upon crossing into Chile it was obvious we were in a wine-rich country. Wine is a part of everyday life – the young couple camping at Pta. Camarones in Cuya immediately offered us a drink but not before pouring some wine on the ground to toast their Chilean ancestors. This wonderful wine sampling continued through Chile and Argentina. Needless to say, wherever there is good wine there is also good food. In Argentina I also discovered some of the tango legends such as Carlos Gardel and Astor Piazzolla. The following i-photos cover Chile and Argentina.



Sharon
February 19, 2010
Salta, Argentina

Argentina: Ruta 40, Ripio, Viñas, Estancias, Spectacular Landscape and More

Part 1: Patagonia - Bariloche to Ushuaia and Return

We arrived in Bariloche in time to locate boarding for Ewok -- before checking into Club Hotel Cerro Catedral for the holiday season. The crossing from Chile into Argentina went smoothly. While in the Bariloche area we also stayed at El Yieti (camped), Camping Petunia (Cabañas) and Hotel Cerro Catedral. We were surprised by how helpful everyone was -- such as, the guy who gave us a boarding recommendation for Ewok, the wonderful Bariloche vets, Juan keeping Ewok in his garden and inviting us to Xmas Eve dinner at Puerto Petunia Restaurant, Alejo – the great chief at Puerto Petunia -- and the list goes on.

After 12 days we left delightful Bariloche and began the drive south on Ruta 40. Our travels south took us to Epuyen (Hosteria Del Lago in a rustic cabana), Parque Nacional Los Alerces (camped), Gobernador Costa (Hotel Roca), Telken Estancia (camped), La Angostura Estancia (camped), El Calafate (Los Dos Pinos Cabanas) where we spent New Years and visted Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. Then it was onto Chilean Patagonia (Parque Nacional Torres Del Paine and Punta Arenas). We crossed into Tierra Del Feugo via ferry from Punta Arenas to Provenir, Chile then after a short drive (100km) on ripio (gravel road) we crossed back into Argentina. Then onto to Rio Grande (Refugio Camping Club Nautica where we meet lots of exciting travelers (on bikes, kayaks, etc.) and our final destination Ushuaia (camped at Pisto Club Andino). This completed our Deadhorse, Alaska to Tierra Del Fuego Journey.

After 2 days in Ushuaia we returned to Punta Arenas, Chile for 6 days to receive treatment for Ewok’s cancer from caring Dr. Tatiana Lopez; then back into Argentina via Ruta 3 (camped at Peurto Julian) then back onto Ruta 40 stopping only at Gobernador Costa (Hotel Roca) and then back to Bariloche (El Yeti and Bungalows Milaquen) where our beloved Ewok died on Jan 18. We will miss her.

During our road trip through Argentina we encountered red flags, votive offerings and other items at roadside shrines. We initially thought the shrines were memorials to people killed along the roadside. Later, I discovered that the shrines pay homage to Antonio Gil (also know as “Gauchito Gil” or “El Gauchito”) who is regarded as a Robin Hood type figure by many.

Also in our travels, we saw bottles of water at certain points along the roadside – were they bottles of water for bikers or??? They were in fact part of Disfunta Correa shrines. Legend has it that during the civil wars of 1840’s Deolinda Correa followed the movements of her husband’s battalion on foot through the deserts of San Juan. When her meager supplies ran out she died with their baby son in her arms. When passing muleteers found them the baby was still nursing. This is the first of miracles attributed to her. At her shrines throughout Argentina you will see bottles of water left to quench her thirst. Truckers are especially devoted and if they borrow water they return it to the site later. Other than water there are other offerings left; at some shrines there may even be enough parts to build a car.



Part 2: The Provinces of Mendoza, San Juan, Rioja and Catamarca

On Jan 21 we headed north again on scenic Ruta 40 towards Argentina’s wine region. Enroute we stopped at Junin de Los Andes (camped at Laura Vacuna), Choas Malal (Muncipal Campground) and Valle Grande, near San Rafael (Camping Los Sauces). Instead of stopping first in Mendoza we headed first to San Juan wine region (San Juan (Hotel Alkazar & Apart Hotel Rocio), Barreal (Posada Don Eduardo) and Pismanta (Hotel Termas de Pismanta). Later we went to Mendoza (Sheraton Mendoza: Pet Friendly) to visit some of the Viñas.

After a quick trip to Chile via Portillo Pass (Ruta 7) through the Andes to check out shipping options for the SUV we returned to Aparthotel Rocio in San Juan. San Juan is a very friendly city to explore. We headed north again on Ruta 40 stopping at San Augustin de Valle Fertil (Camping Valle Fertil), Rioja (Camping Los Pinos), Belen (Camping),

(See the I-Movie posted earlier on wine districts of Chile and Argentina and John's section on Argentian Wines.)


Part 3: Provinces of Salta, JuJuy, Santiago del Estero

The drive through Salta and JuJuy Provinces was a totally awesome experience where we experienced colorful grandiose landscape. We enjoyed discovering Cafayate (Camping Rio Colorado) another great wine region. Then it was onto Molinos where we took another ripio detour to visit Finca Colomé (camping) to sample more wines. From Colomé it was onto Cachi (Camping Municipal) and Salta (Hotel La Beltraneja - pet friendly and wonderful staff). From Salta we drove north on Ruta 9 to JuJuy and then onto Ruta 52 to Puma de Jama. We stopped at Pastos Chicos (camped) and Purmamarca (Hosteria Bebo Vilte). We retraced our journey to return to Salta (Hotel La Beltraneja) where we continued to explore what Salta has to offer. We found Salta to be an enjoyable, relaxing city to visit.

Our travels next took us through Santiago del Estero (stopping only in Cuidad de Loreto, Hotel Ruta 9).



Part 4: Cordoba, La Pampa and Patagonia (Neuquen)

Codoba Province was delightful. We visited first Cordoba (Aparhotel Bari – pet friendly). While we were in Cordoba we were saddened to hear about the earthquake in Chile. Cordoba had a big city feel; so we were fortunately we explored the beautiful Sierra towns of La Cumbre (Camping El Paso), Villa Carlos Pas (ACA Camping) and Embalse (Camping).

Realizing that our time in South America was getting shorter we decided to head south towards Lake District via La Pampa. La Pampa is close to the stereotypical image most North Americans have of Argentina – grasslands, pampas grass, cattle herding, etc.. Our journey through La Pampa took us to General Acha (Hotel Patagonia), Parque Nacional Lihuel Calel (camping).

It was onto Neuquen where we stopped at Añelo (Hotel Sol de Añelo), Villa de La Angostura (Camping Cullumche & Camping Uniquehue). While traveling through Neuquen we also visited the Familia Schroeder Viña. It was great to be back in the lake distict. We spent four idyllic days in Villa de La Angostura. Leaving Villa de La Angosturia we traveled through an area know as Seite Lagos (seven lakes) where we camped at Camping Lago Falkner. We took a break from the road at San Martin de Los Andes (Villa Pirén & Cabanas Ensueno) before heading to Junin de Los Andes where we would cross back into the Chilean Lake District.


Part 5: Buenos Aires

(To be posted later)


During our travels through Argentina I collected i-photos which resulted in the following i-movies.


I-Movie #1: Patagonia - Bariloche to Ushuaia and Return




I-Movie # 2: The Provinces of Mendoza, San Juan , Rioja and Catamarca






I-Movie # 3: Provinces of Salta, JuJuy, Santiago del Estero,




I-Movie #4: Cordoba, La Pampa and Patagonia (Neuquen)




I-Movie # 5: Buenos Aires

(To be added later)