Wednesday, January 20, 2010

Argentina: Ruta 40, Ripio, Viñas, Estancias, Spectacular Landscape and More

Part 1: Patagonia - Bariloche to Ushuaia and Return

We arrived in Bariloche in time to locate boarding for Ewok -- before checking into Club Hotel Cerro Catedral for the holiday season. The crossing from Chile into Argentina went smoothly. While in the Bariloche area we also stayed at El Yieti (camped), Camping Petunia (Cabañas) and Hotel Cerro Catedral. We were surprised by how helpful everyone was -- such as, the guy who gave us a boarding recommendation for Ewok, the wonderful Bariloche vets, Juan keeping Ewok in his garden and inviting us to Xmas Eve dinner at Puerto Petunia Restaurant, Alejo – the great chief at Puerto Petunia -- and the list goes on.

After 12 days we left delightful Bariloche and began the drive south on Ruta 40. Our travels south took us to Epuyen (Hosteria Del Lago in a rustic cabana), Parque Nacional Los Alerces (camped), Gobernador Costa (Hotel Roca), Telken Estancia (camped), La Angostura Estancia (camped), El Calafate (Los Dos Pinos Cabanas) where we spent New Years and visted Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. Then it was onto Chilean Patagonia (Parque Nacional Torres Del Paine and Punta Arenas). We crossed into Tierra Del Feugo via ferry from Punta Arenas to Provenir, Chile then after a short drive (100km) on ripio (gravel road) we crossed back into Argentina. Then onto to Rio Grande (Refugio Camping Club Nautica where we meet lots of exciting travelers (on bikes, kayaks, etc.) and our final destination Ushuaia (camped at Pisto Club Andino). This completed our Deadhorse, Alaska to Tierra Del Fuego Journey.

After 2 days in Ushuaia we returned to Punta Arenas, Chile for 6 days to receive treatment for Ewok’s cancer from caring Dr. Tatiana Lopez; then back into Argentina via Ruta 3 (camped at Peurto Julian) then back onto Ruta 40 stopping only at Gobernador Costa (Hotel Roca) and then back to Bariloche (El Yeti and Bungalows Milaquen) where our beloved Ewok died on Jan 18. We will miss her.

During our road trip through Argentina we encountered red flags, votive offerings and other items at roadside shrines. We initially thought the shrines were memorials to people killed along the roadside. Later, I discovered that the shrines pay homage to Antonio Gil (also know as “Gauchito Gil” or “El Gauchito”) who is regarded as a Robin Hood type figure by many.

Also in our travels, we saw bottles of water at certain points along the roadside – were they bottles of water for bikers or??? They were in fact part of Disfunta Correa shrines. Legend has it that during the civil wars of 1840’s Deolinda Correa followed the movements of her husband’s battalion on foot through the deserts of San Juan. When her meager supplies ran out she died with their baby son in her arms. When passing muleteers found them the baby was still nursing. This is the first of miracles attributed to her. At her shrines throughout Argentina you will see bottles of water left to quench her thirst. Truckers are especially devoted and if they borrow water they return it to the site later. Other than water there are other offerings left; at some shrines there may even be enough parts to build a car.



Part 2: The Provinces of Mendoza, San Juan, Rioja and Catamarca

On Jan 21 we headed north again on scenic Ruta 40 towards Argentina’s wine region. Enroute we stopped at Junin de Los Andes (camped at Laura Vacuna), Choas Malal (Muncipal Campground) and Valle Grande, near San Rafael (Camping Los Sauces). Instead of stopping first in Mendoza we headed first to San Juan wine region (San Juan (Hotel Alkazar & Apart Hotel Rocio), Barreal (Posada Don Eduardo) and Pismanta (Hotel Termas de Pismanta). Later we went to Mendoza (Sheraton Mendoza: Pet Friendly) to visit some of the Viñas.

After a quick trip to Chile via Portillo Pass (Ruta 7) through the Andes to check out shipping options for the SUV we returned to Aparthotel Rocio in San Juan. San Juan is a very friendly city to explore. We headed north again on Ruta 40 stopping at San Augustin de Valle Fertil (Camping Valle Fertil), Rioja (Camping Los Pinos), Belen (Camping),

(See the I-Movie posted earlier on wine districts of Chile and Argentina and John's section on Argentian Wines.)


Part 3: Provinces of Salta, JuJuy, Santiago del Estero

The drive through Salta and JuJuy Provinces was a totally awesome experience where we experienced colorful grandiose landscape. We enjoyed discovering Cafayate (Camping Rio Colorado) another great wine region. Then it was onto Molinos where we took another ripio detour to visit Finca Colomé (camping) to sample more wines. From Colomé it was onto Cachi (Camping Municipal) and Salta (Hotel La Beltraneja - pet friendly and wonderful staff). From Salta we drove north on Ruta 9 to JuJuy and then onto Ruta 52 to Puma de Jama. We stopped at Pastos Chicos (camped) and Purmamarca (Hosteria Bebo Vilte). We retraced our journey to return to Salta (Hotel La Beltraneja) where we continued to explore what Salta has to offer. We found Salta to be an enjoyable, relaxing city to visit.

Our travels next took us through Santiago del Estero (stopping only in Cuidad de Loreto, Hotel Ruta 9).



Part 4: Cordoba, La Pampa and Patagonia (Neuquen)

Codoba Province was delightful. We visited first Cordoba (Aparhotel Bari – pet friendly). While we were in Cordoba we were saddened to hear about the earthquake in Chile. Cordoba had a big city feel; so we were fortunately we explored the beautiful Sierra towns of La Cumbre (Camping El Paso), Villa Carlos Pas (ACA Camping) and Embalse (Camping).

Realizing that our time in South America was getting shorter we decided to head south towards Lake District via La Pampa. La Pampa is close to the stereotypical image most North Americans have of Argentina – grasslands, pampas grass, cattle herding, etc.. Our journey through La Pampa took us to General Acha (Hotel Patagonia), Parque Nacional Lihuel Calel (camping).

It was onto Neuquen where we stopped at Añelo (Hotel Sol de Añelo), Villa de La Angostura (Camping Cullumche & Camping Uniquehue). While traveling through Neuquen we also visited the Familia Schroeder Viña. It was great to be back in the lake distict. We spent four idyllic days in Villa de La Angostura. Leaving Villa de La Angosturia we traveled through an area know as Seite Lagos (seven lakes) where we camped at Camping Lago Falkner. We took a break from the road at San Martin de Los Andes (Villa Pirén & Cabanas Ensueno) before heading to Junin de Los Andes where we would cross back into the Chilean Lake District.



Part 5: Buenos Aires


(To be posted later)


During our travels through Argentina I collected i-photos which resulted in the following i-movies.


I-Movie #1: Patagonia - Bariloche to Ushuaia and Return




I-Movie # 2: The Provinces of Mendoza, San Juan , Rioja and Catamarca






I-Movie # 3: Provinces of Salta, JuJuy, Santiago del Estero,




I-Movie #4: Cordoba, La Pampa and Patagonia (Neuquen)




I-Movie # 5: Buenos Aires

(To be added later)

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