Saturday, July 24, 2010

Availability of Wines in Antigua is Good

If you are not ready to give Guatemala’s first winery, Chateau DeFay www.chateaudefayvineyards.com a try then you should know that you can purchase good wine in Guatemala. Chilean wines makeup 60% of wines sales, with Argentinean and Californian wines being the next most popular wines, according to 2009 statistics www.CentralAmericaData.com . The same source notes that 45% of sales are at supermarkets, 30% at restaurants, 15% at liquor distributors and 10% at wine stores.

Calle del Arco



One of the best places to enjoy wine in Guatemala is Antigua. In Antigua, you might want to start on Calle del Arco (5 Avenida Norte) where there are two wines shops, Almacen Troccoli and Tobacos y Vinos.


Almacen Troccoli




Tobacos y Vinos







Almacen Troccoli, which use to be a paint shop, later a paint shop and liquor store combo is now offering a good selection of liquor and wine. El Sabor del Tiempo Restaurant is adjacent to Almacen Troccoli. The other shop selling wine is Tobacos y Vinos. Sangre also on Calle del Arco is a restaurant offering wine tastings. In addition, throughout Antigua other than dropping by La Bodega Supermarket there are a number of specialty shops and many restaurants offering a good selection of wines (see www.revuemag.com and grupoquepasa.com for further suggestions).

Thursday, July 8, 2010

Guatemala’s First Winery: Chateau DeFay

During our most recent trip to Guatemala I was doing some research on wines when I happened to discover a website for Guatemala’s first winery, Chateau DeFay. We just had to visit and so we did. We followed the directions on their website www.chateaudefayvineyards.com. Upon arriving in Santa Maria de Jesus we discovered that the road to Palin was badly damaged by tropical storm, Agatha. Before hearing this warning we had seen a painted sign on a rock Chateau DeFay 6km – so we thought what’s the problem it is only 6km away on ripio (gravel road) and we have a 4X4. So off we went – after a slow drive where we saw more painted signs at 5km, 3km etc. and finally we arrived at the entrance to Chateau DeFay.

We received a wonderful welcome by the owner, Jacques Defay and were treated to wine tasting. We were pleased to see and hear about the progress of a young winery. Establishing a winery in Guatemala is commendable given all the unique challenges.

Chateau DeFay has a pleasant dinning room where we enjoyed lunch. After the drive from Antigua we were most happy to be able to have lunch in such an awesome setting. If you get the chance it is worth a visit.


Sharon
Antigua, Guatemala
July 8, 2010


Friday, May 7, 2010

Buenos Aires: Una Ciudad Linda, Linda !!!!

Buenos Aires was our final destination. In fact originally we thought we might not visit – it is, after all, a big city. However, in the end we came to the conclusion we could not leave Argentina without spending some time in Buenos Aires. When we did visit we discovered it is in fact a very big city – but it is also a very interesting city. Prior to arriving we located on-line pet-friendly Atenea Suites on Cabrera in Palermo Hollywood. Our original plans were to spend 9 days in Buenos Aires but this grew into 4 weeks due to the change in estimated arrival date for our SUV in Houston.

The typical thing to do when you visit Buenos Aires is to do the touristy stuff -- we did some of that (San Telmo, Recoleta Cementary, Peurto Madero, etc.). Overall, we just took our time to explore the city and did lots of walks in our neighborhood. The more we explored the more we found. Shortly after arriving we discovered that Palermo Viejo was in walking distance. Then walking back one day we discovered Goritti had lots of restaurants -- another day coming back in the cab -- we noticed the Fitz Roy and Honduras area and began to explore it. Later taking a slightly different route to Fitz Roy we discovered the Fin Del Mundo Bodega. My overall recommendation is instead of following travel guides like Lonely Planet find yourself a good neighborhood in Buenos Aires – explore it and you are most likely to discover lots!!!

We will miss the wonderful Argentine wines, freshly prepared food, the charm of the side-walk cafes, the bakery where Juancho (Amadeus’s copy cat) lives, weekend markets, neighborhood stores, seeing the “paseadores de perros” walking 6-8 dogs http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FaOpzevtvtc and much more. We are saddened to leave Argentina but, we must head back up north; reset ourselves into the North American climatic pattern again (it is fall here-spring there -- go south (it gets colder-here) versus go north (it gets colder-there). It is time to see friends and family.


Sharon & Jack
May 10, 2010
Buenos Aires, Argentina




Monday, April 19, 2010

Chile Part II

Chile II:
After the Earthquake:
(22 March – 13 April 2010)

Our border crossing into Chile was interesting. While we tried to cross on 20 March, we were denied entry by the agricultural inspector who wanted more health papers on Amadeus. When we returned on 22 March a different agriculture inspector was not even interested. In any event we crossed into Chile without problems and stayed in Pucón, a small town at the base of Volcán Villarica and along the shore of Lago Villarica (Figures 1 to 3).

Figure 1. Pucón with Volcán Villaricva in the background.
















Figure 2. Volcán Villarica from Pucón, the volcano is active.
















Figure 3. Pucon also lies along the shore of Lago Villarica.
















Pucón is a relatively famous area for fishing and skiing. While I did not fish because the weather was poor, we did visit the ski area on the slopes of Volcán Villarica (Figures 4 to 6).

Figure 4. The ski resort at Pucón.









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Figure 5. The lodge at the ski Resort at Pucón
















Figure 6. In the off season people climb Volcán Villarica (see the dots).
















After two days of bad weather (a lot of rain), we drive on to Ruta 5 (the Panamerican Highway). We drive through a lot of areas that were affected by the 8.8 earthquake that struck Chile on the 28th of February. There were bridges down, houses in ruins, and buildings damaged. To the credit of the Chilean people, by mid-March, much of the damaged had been cleaned-up and repairs were in progress. We took only a few photos (Figures 7 to 9).

Figure 7. Damage to buildings in the small town of Peralillo in the Colchagua Valley.
















Figure 8. Earthquake damage to the church in Santa Cruz.





















Figure 9. Earthquake damage in Santa Cruz.

















We drove west to the famous surfing town of Pichilemu on the coast. There was very little earthquake damage in this town. The beaches look much like those in California (Figure 10 & 11). There were only a few surfers in the water (Figure 12). The sea birds were spectacular (Figures 13 & 14).

Figure 10. The beach at Pichilemu.

















Figure 11. The surf at Punta Lobos, Pichilemu.
















Figure 12. Surfers inb the water at Punta Lobos, Pichilemu.

















Figure 13. Peruvian pelicans at Punta Lobos, Pichilemu.

















Figure 14. Pelicans, cormorants, gulls, and boobies can vbe seen on this rock off Punta Lobos, Pichilemu.

















We drove on to the Colbún Reservoir just east of Talca and Ruta 5. We camped at a “closed” campground (Figures 15 & 16).

Figure 15. Sharon at our camp at Embalme Colbún.

















Figure 16. Embalme Colbún in a Chaparral habitat.

















We drove further east to Reserva Nacional Alto Lircay. It is a large stand of cöigue (Nothofagus dombeyi) and roble (N. macrocarpa), (Figures 17 & 18). We had the park all to ourselves (Figure 19). We stayed 3 nights and did a lot of hiking (Figures 20 to 23). We saw a variety of wildlife or their sign (Figures 24 to 27)

Figure 17. Cöigue in Reserva Nacional Alto Lircay.

















Figure 18. Roble in Reserva Nacional Alto Lircay.





















Figure 19. Our camp in Alto Lircay.

















Figure 20. Hiking the trails in Reserva Nacional Alto Lircay.

















Figure 21. View across Valle Venado in RN Alto Lircay.

















Figure 22. View of the ridge above camp in RN Alto Lircay.

















Figure 23. Cöigue forest in RN Alto Lircay.





















Figure 24. Unidentified hawk in RN Alto Lircay.

















Figure 25. White-throated treeclimber in RN lto Lircay.
















Figure 26. An interesting fungus in RN Alto Lircay.


















Figure 27. Degu (Octodon sp.) burrows in RN Alto Lircay.

















Figure 28. Fox scat with berries in RN Alto Lircay.

















After three nights we drove north toward Santiiago. We found a Boy Scout Jamboree camp (Parque Picarquin) that allowed us to camp for the night. The park was almost deserted. We stayed only one night, but the area is interesting (Figures 29 to 32). In the Southern Hemisphere things are reversed from up north (Figure 33 & 34).

Figure 29. Fixing dinner at Picarquin Dinner.

















Figure 30. Puff ball on the lawn at Picarquin.


















Figure 31. Another mushroom at Picarquin.


















Figure 32. The moon is full at our Picarquin camp.

















Figure 33. North facing slope.

















Figure 34. South facing slope.
















We went on north and east of Santiago to the valley of the Rio Maipo (Figures 35 & 36) where we camp for two nights.

Figure 35. Our camp at Cascadas de Animas on the Rio Maipo.

















Figure 36. The Rio Maipo is famous for its white water rafting.

















We drive to Viña del Mar to stay while we wait to ship our car. We visit Valparaiso (Figures 37 to 41). While here we drive east over the hill to the wine region of the Casablanca Valley (Figures 42 to 44).

Figure 37. The harbor at Valparaiso from Restaurant Turri on the hill.

















Figure 38. The Bohemian area of Valparaiso where many artists try to make it.
















Figure 39. Another artist shows her work.

















Figure 40. We take the funicular to climb the hills of Valparaiso.

















Figure 41. Of course lunch at Restaurant Turri includes wine.

















Figure 42. Vineyards in Casablanca Valley from Viña Indomita.

















Figure 43. Lunch at Viña Indomita, I have pulpo (octopus).

















Figure 44. Sharon tastes a nice Pinot Noir at Vina Indomita.

















After we leave the car in Valparaiso (it is now two weeks late in shipping), we go on to Santiago (Figures 45 to 48).

Figure 45. Outside our hotel in the Providencia region of Santiago.

















Figure 46. Santiago is quite modern with many skyscrapers.





















Figure 47. Another skyscraper.





















Figure 48. Windows need to be washed.
















Again, Chile was a pleasant country to visit. We only hope the car gets to Houston on time.

Friday, April 16, 2010

Halfway Around the World: The Journey of a Cat Called Amadeus and a Dog Called Ewok from Deadhorse Alaska to Ushuaia, Argentina

We have usually traveled with our pets (Amadeus & Ewok) and so when we decided to do the Las Américas Trip we knew they would do the trip with us. Amadeus and Ewok had traveled internationally before (Canada, Mexico, Guatemala and Honduras) so we were aware there would be challenges such as border crossings, finding pet friendly accommodations and changing climatic conditions. We also worried about the fact that they were both 15 years old. We arrived in Deadhorse, Alaska just in time for the Summer Solstice, June 21, 2009 and then headed south through Canada, United States, Mexico, Central and South America. We completed our Deadhorse, Alaska to Ushuaia, Tierra Del Fuego, Argentina Journey on January 6th, 2010 (just after the Summer Solstice in the Southern Hemisphere).

After we reached Ushuaia we returned to Punta Arenas, Chile for 6 days to receive cancer treatment for Ewok from caring Dr. Tatiana Lopez. We returned to Bariloche, Argentina where our beloved Ewok died on January 18th. Amadeus, John and I miss her. She was a very special dog. Just showing her photo on my i-phone got us at a hotel room at many places that would not normally accept dogs.

We shipped our SUV from Valparaiso, Chile early April. Our plans are to stay in South America until May 10, 2010. Amadeus flew on LAN Chile from Santiago to Buenos Aires on April 13th and later will fly to the US on Continental Airlines. His summer travel plans include British Columbia and Guatemala.

This i-movie covers the journey of “a cat called Amadeus” and “a dog called Ewok” from Deadhorse Alaska to Ushuaia, Argentina.

Sharon,
Santiago, Chile
April 13, 2010